Spring on your plate: Interview with Executive Chef Holger about asparagus season

Holger, what makes asparagus season special for you – and do you have any childhood memories connected to it?
For us, it is a shared start into spring, a culinary moment that motivates us every year to get creative and bring the best possible dishes to the table. I also associate asparagus with a very clear childhood memory: my mother always prepared it in a classic way – with potatoes, butter and a soft‑cooked ham. This simple, honest meal was always the signal that spring had begun.
How do the different types of asparagus differ – and what really matters when buying it?
Whether white, green or purple – each variety has its own character and brings different flavors. That is exactly what makes the season so exciting. For me, freshness is the most important factor when buying asparagus: firm tips, juicy cut surfaces, a neutral smell and that typical “squeaking” sound when you rub the spears together. Only when appearance, moisture and a clean cut are right is the asparagus truly high‑quality. The often‑heard phrase “the thicker, the better” is not true. What matters is freshness, juiciness and how carefully the asparagus was harvested.
How important is regionality when selecting your asparagus?
Of course, we focus on regionality and freshness – and our suppliers ensure that this is always the case.
How should asparagus be peeled and stored, and what belongs in the cooking water?
Speed is not the right measure when peeling. The asparagus tip should not be peeled; you start about six centimeters below it and peel cleanly and evenly so no fibers remain. For storage, the refrigerator is ideal, with the asparagus wrapped in a slightly damp kitchen towel.
The cooking water needs exactly this combination: you need lemon and sugar, it doesn’t work without salt anyway, and butter doesn’t hurt.
How do you make Hollandaise sauce at home – and what do you do if something goes wrong?
You need time, practice, and a good reduction made from spices, white wine and vinegar. It’s important that the clarified butter has the same temperature as the whisked egg yolks. If the asparagus becomes too soft, take it out quickly and put it in ice water – this stops the cooking process. For a curdled Hollandaise, I would suggest: practice makes perfect – so start again from the beginning.
Which side dishes and drinks go particularly well with asparagus?
Wild garlic and asparagus are simply an unbeatable team. To go with it, I recommend Sauvignon Blanc, Silvaner or Pinot Blanc – they provide enough freshness, aroma and minerality to balance the slightly bitter, vegetal notes of asparagus without overpowering it.
Holger’s favourite asparagus dish
My absolute favorite dish during asparagus season is white asparagus with wild garlic Hollandaise – a true spring classic that still feels modern.
Ingredients
| For the asparagus | 1,5 kg | white asparagus |
| 1 tsp | sugar | |
| 1 tsp | salt | |
| 1 slice | lemon | |
| 20 g | butter | |
| Wild garlic Hollandaise | 200g | clarified butter |
| 3 | egg yolks | |
| 40 ml | white wine | |
| 20 ml | white wine vinegar | |
| 1 | shallot, finely diced | |
| 4 - 5 | pepper corns | |
| 1 | bay leaf | |
| 1 | bunch wild garlic | |
| salt and a little lemon juice | ||
| Sides | New potatoes | |
| Butter and chives |
Preparation
Preparing and cooking the asparagus
First, peel the asparagus carefully and remove the woody ends. Then place the spears in plenty of water seasoned with salt, sugar, a slice of lemon and a little butter. Cook them for eight to fourteen minutes depending on thickness, until they are tender but still firm to the bite. Afterwards, remove the asparagus and let it drain briefly.
Preparing the wild garlic reduction
For the reduction, bring white wine, white wine vinegar, the finely diced shallot, the peppercorns and the bay leaf to a boil and reduce the liquid by half. Then strain it.
At the same time, blanch the wild garlic briefly, cool it in ice water and purée it finely.
Making the Hollandaise
Whisk the egg yolks with two to three tablespoons of the reduction over a water bath until creamy. Then slowly add the lukewarm clarified butter until the sauce is smooth and stable. Finally, season the Hollandaise with salt, a little lemon juice and the wild garlic purée.
Preparing the side dishes
Cook the new potatoes and then toss them with a little butter and chives.
Plating
To plate the dish, place the cooked asparagus on pre‑warmed plates and arrange the potatoes next to them. Then either pour the wild garlic Hollandaise generously over the asparagus or serve it separately in a small sauce jug – whichever you prefer. Finally, you can sprinkle a little fresh wild garlic or chives on top to enhance both the appearance and flavor.
Enjoy!
Why you should experience asparagus season at Ayinger in der Au and Ayinger am Platzl
Asparagus season with us means real craftsmanship, authentic cuisine and a Munich Wirtshaus atmosphere you simply have to experience. Reserve your table now at Ayinger in der Au or Ayinger am Platzl – we look forward to welcoming you!